Thursday, 29 September 2011

Church and State and the mother of all gothic churches

On Tuesday we took a walk down a long street, rue Rambuteau, which culminated at St Eustache, not particularly beautiful but has France's largest pipe organ and was chosen by Mozart for his mother's funeral. The parish curates for just about all years with 4 numbers are listed, though the present church dates from 1532.
Across a green space is another edifice, the Bourse du Commerce, not the stock exchange but the 18th century market for grains. It has survived several fires and according to the legend outside is only partly restored, but what a magnificent trading floor!
In the afternoon we went to St Denis, which our Paris web adviser Tom (who put us onto the unforgettable ice cream) ranks as the number one must visit in the city.
A lengthy Metro trip to the North-west perimeter of the city is repaid by something literally awesome. The first ever gothic church, from which all others are copied, built on ground sacred to Christians since the burial of Denis in 250AD. The remains of just about all the rulers of France since Dagobert and Clovis (7th century) have ended up here. The roll call is 42 kings, 32 queens, 63 princes/esses. There are 70 recumbent statues and tombs, including of course Louis XVI & Marie Antoinette.
Pictures of the nave and rose window follow.
A wonderful afternoon was completed with a walk around the large, open square from which the Basilique de St Denis arises and a refreshing ale in it's shadow to prepare us for the trip back to our apartment.

No comments:

Post a Comment